FEW RESTAURANT OPENINGS in Bath - in recent years, at least - can have been as highly anticipated as The Cowshed. Some five years after The Cowshed mark one, on Whiteladies Road in Clifton, opened; Four years after the arrival of its sister butchery, Ruby & White; and two years after first showing an interest in the city, the Bladud Buildings eatery finally opened its doors in September.
Situated in the former Bottelino's at the top of the town, it's had a dramatic makeover. For a start, there's been a two-storey, glass-fronted extension built out bacck, exposing the natural Bath stone walls, poished wooden floorboards and a side of Bath you rarely see when eating out. Views stretch out long across the rolling hills and light pours in - this is no traditional Bath basement eatery. Downstairs is just as different too. An open-plan kitchen looks out over a striking and large chef's table booth and beyond that, seating is spread out comfortably, with relaxed table decorations, bovine art and chic Emily Bond cushions. You feel hip just being here - and Bath's twitterati clearly feel the same, with regular brags about who's been and when.
Amongst the more grumpy out there (they'll be the ones heading over to TripAdvisor, and we don't like to listen to them on the regular) there have been cries of "Does Bath really need another steakhouse?"
The andrew, always, is yes. You can never have too much cow - trust us - but, despite the name, attacking this place on that front is rather to miss the point. Y'see, this restaurant isn't all about the steak. The day and eveing menus are well balanced with meat (all of our fav beasties), fish and veg - everything well sourced, and sticking to The Cowshed mantra: 'simple things done well'.
We'd popped over for lunch a few weeks after opening, and the top floor of the restaurant was buzzing. It's little wonder, with a great value set menu (three courses for £12) on offer from noon to 3pm, Monday to Saturday, where you can get everything from potted Devonshire shrimp to warm shredded duck with Stornoway black pudding and lentils, and apple pie with ice cream.
Our eyes were immediately drawn, through, to the a la carte. Captain Annoying was back (He's still annoying) and ordered the lamb croquette (£7.10) to start. Tender, shredded lamb had been well seasoned, and served with a thick, punchy tomato and black olive compote - the sort of bold Mediterranean flavours that make you feel as through an Italian mama has come over and smacked you round the chops to waken up those tastebuds. Consider them awoken. I ordered the decidedly more delicate, but no less delicious, Devonshire Scallops (£.9.95) upon the recommendation of a colleague who had dined here a few days before. With crusty golden bottoms, and transluscent hearts, the scallops were perfectly cooked and paired with fresh, sweet crushed peas and tart, roasted cherry tomatoes. The addition of crispy pig's ears, looking like some kind of savoury web, were an inspired contrast of texture.
It was a tough call for mains - with lamb shank served with an apricot and chickpea stew (£16.50), fish and chips (£11.90) burger and fries (£14.95) and a pumkpin, red onion and sage quiche (£13.50) all on offer - but, like magpies to meatl, the Captain and I went for the top prize - sirloin steak (£16.70/200g) and half a Salcombe lobster (around £20, but market prices vary daily).
The Captain ordered his steak medium, and it came cooked just so - blushing like a cheek Tess of the D'Urbervilles could only dream of. He missed the deep caramelisation that can only come from a professional grill, but the flavour of the meat was there and a bérnaise sauce (£2) was a creamy, aniseedy dream. Sides are all good but come at an additional cost - so beware if you're on a budget. Three hunks of Bone marrow (£3.95) were perfectly seasoned and gave me the kind of meaty, greasy grin only bone marrow can. Skinny and fat chips (£2.50 each) were tasty, as were cheesy dauphinoise (£3) and extremely garlicky mushrooms (£3.30). The lobster came just warm, and was a little overcooked for me, but still sang of the sea.
A few details weren't quite right - a glass of Champagne on first attempt came out flat (although was hurriedly replaced) cutlery was missing (again replaced), promised aioli was absent (replaced, but disappointing) - but the staff couldn't be more helpful or polite, and I am sure these are new-restaurant-creases that will be swiftly ironed out.
Puddings, meanwhile, were large and exceptional, Captain's Créme brûlées (£5.10; and yes, there were two) were silky and smooth and delicately fragrant, as he crashed through the sugary shell with crunchy biscotti. my pair of almond and blackberry cakes (£5.95), with their cute little cream urs, were similarly well received.
A stylish new addition to the Bath scene, then - and so much more than 'Just another Steak House'.
Laura Rowe.
